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29.08.2015

Mexiko: Reise in die Vergangenheit

Mexico: Travel back in Time

From Morelia the path leads us to the Gulf region. Crossing Mexico, there's a lot to discover: Exciting pre-Hispanic ruins, lively cities and villages, ugly garbage dumps, highlands and coastal regions. Mexico's diversity in such a small space is simply fascinating.

In the fertile plains of the highlands, mainly agriculture is practiced, with corn and quinoa predominating. Again and again we see posters from large seed companies such as the Swiss conglomerate Syngenta. We think of the farmers who have to deal with genetic engineering varieties from Switzerland: seed monopoly, pesticide monopoly, ban on replanting part of the harvest, a quick search on Google brings up all sorts of stories from these multinational companies. Therefore, at this point, a little surreptitious advertising for the "Responsible business initiative" (Corporate Justice), for which signatures are currently being collected in Switzerland.

When we speak of Mexico's history before the Spanish, we usually primarily think of the Aztecs or the Majas. But fact is, that several other peoples lived before and also parallel to these two cultures.

Tula is our first stop. Almost 100 km north of Mexico City, an inconspicuous, not particularly beautiful city, but only a short distance outside is the former capital of the Toltecs. When we speak of Mexico's history before the Spanish, we usually primarily think of the Aztecs or the Majas. But fact is, that several other peoples lived before and also parallel to these two cultures. From the city founded in 700 AD, at its heyday with 25,000 inhabitants an important center for the time, some fascinating ruins remain. Several pyramids, temples and remnants of a large hall, and partly preserved, partly restored stone carvings bring this city to life again in the mind's eye. The city of Tajin is even more fascinating.

A steep and winding road brings us from the highlands down to the Gulf of Mexico. When we see the first banana plant, we realize that we are reaching a different climate zone. The pine forest gives way to a dense jungle with lianas. Whole villages are dedicated to growing coffee. The humidity increases noticeably with each meter of altitude less on the GPS. As we marvel at the landscape, we suddenly see dozens of vultures circling. We spontaneously think of a dead animal, which is anything but a rarity here on the streets. Until we look back a few curves later and realize that it is the smell of a huge garbage dump that attracts the vultures. Apparently entire truckloads of trash are being dumped over the slope here. We can only imagine what this means for the water that comes out of this valley and consequently also for the villages that are further down and the people who live there. This cannot be an official landfill and yet it seems to be widely known and visible.

El Tajin is the name of the old ruin near Papantla. Thousands of people lived here from AD 600 to AD 1200. The city controlled large parts of what is now the state of Veracruz in the Gulf region. The ruins were rediscovered by a Spanish tobacco inspector about 250 years ago as an “accident”. We are fascinated by the sheer size of the facility. We walk for several hours between huge stone pyramids, palaces, temples and event buildings, always keeping in mind that, of course, only the monuments made of stone have survived the passage of time. To this day, a previous version of «bungee jumping» is practiced three times a day: four voladores ("the flying ones") tumble down an approximately 15m high pole on a carefully rolled up rope. Different reasons are given for the origin of this ceremony: fertility ritual, rain dance ... Anyway, we think that we would like to fly like that too one time.

In general, we notice how few tourists we see. A few Mexican visitors but practically no gringos. The main season is in winter and so we have to be less strict about our usual strategies to avoid tourist hot spots.

We continue through a famous vanilla cultivation area along the coast towards the south to Tlacotalpan, a beautifully colorful colonial town, or - in terms of character – rather a village. Beautifully located on a large river - of course there is fish for dinner - we enjoy the very relaxed atmosphere, stroll through the alleys in the shade, here a lemonade, there a beer, life is good.

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